Hometown:
Hartford CT, grew up in Medway Mass, in Bay Area since 1983
1. What are the secrets to being a really great cooking
teacher?
Food writer Betty Fussell recently wrote that the difference
between Julia Child and some of the TV chefs of today is that "she
showed how, she didn't show off". That struck a cord with me; I
really want people to know how to do it. I want them to have a benchmark
for the flavor and the taste and be able to go home and do it.
Also sometimes you have to start at the very beginning and teach
people how to taste, but also how to breathe, which affects how
we taste. If I can teach someone the techniques but I can't teach
them to season-to-taste, I haven't done my job. How to finesse things
that don't go their way. How to use your senses, your smarts, your
instincts, to honor the integrity of the food. Restraint, sometimes
it's about what you don't add rather than what you do. You don't
want to have too much going on. When in doubt, don't!
2. What's your approach to cooking?
I cook at home a lot. I approach cooking at home with the mindset
of an Italian American family, with those roots, I can't get away
from the fact that I have an Italian American palate. That's what
I fall back on. The flavors come from my Italian grandmother, the
seasoning is because of my Indian teacher and the technique is from
my French chef instructors.
3. What are your favorite cookbooks?
I love Lidia's cookbooks, they resonate with me even though she
learned to cook Italian American food and didn't grow up eating
it. We have the same palate. I love David Lebovitz's dessert cookbook
(Room for Dessert), his ginger cake is a real crowd pleaser. I love
Janet Fletcher's Fresh From the Farmers' Market. I like the Chez
Panisse books, I use them for inspiration. The Silver Palate books
inspired me in writing my book proposal. I always felt that they
had too many ingredients, they didn't know restraint, but I love
their approachability.
4. What do you cook for yourself at home?
Simple stuff, fish, chops. I have an indoor gas grill that I use
many nights a week. My favorite thing to do is, before I go to work
to take a chop and spread it with olive oil sprinkle it with fennel
seed and garlic powder and salt and pepper and cook it when I get
home. Right now I'm cooking a lot with tomatoes--with mozzarella
or with pasta. I make risotto, my husband likes it. It's romantic
making something for the person you love, that you know they love.
It's a sign of compassion and respect how you cook for someone.
5. What's the best thing about living in the Bay Area?
Salad. It's the one thing I missed so much on my book tour. I love
fresh, flavorful salad ingredients and local restaurants seem to
have a good understanding of how to put interesting salads together.
For example they don't use tomatoes out of season. We are spoiled
at Copia because we get the greens out of the garden. Do you know
the gem lettuce you find at the farmers markets? I love that lettuce.
A little good olive oil and vinegar and I'm happy.
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