 IACP Cooking Teacher of the Year, 2002



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Recipes
I've
been known to drive across town in the middle of a hot summer day
for a big bowl of this cool, refreshing salad at my favorite Vietnamese
restaurant (Le Cheval in Oakland, CA). Any time of year, Bun Cha--pronounced
BOON CHAW in Vietnamese--makes a substantial lunch or simple one-dish
supper. If you prefer, substitute shrimp, beef, or boneless, skinless
chicken breasts or thighs for the pork. Look for the Asian fish sauce
and rice noodles in the Asian section of well-stocked supermarkets.You'll
probably have some sauce leftover. I find that it keeps for a couple
of weeks--covered, in the fridge--till just about the time my next
craving for this dish sets in again. Be sure to serve this in deep
pasta bowls so you'll have plenty of room to layer all the ingredients.
Glass bowls make a particularly striking presentation. Let
me know what you think of this recipe.
Vietnamese Rice Noodle Salad with Grilled Honey-Glazed
Pork
Serves 4
Secrets
- To prevent bamboo skewers from charring and splintering on
the hot grill, soak them in water for at least 30 minutes before
threading them with the meat. You'll need 16 ten-inch bamboo skewers
for this recipe. To easily turn the skewered meat on the grill,
use two skewers to thread each serving of meat, holding the pair
of skewers parallel, about 1 inch apart, as you thread the meat
onto them. This way, when you grab a skewer, the meat will come
with it, instead of the skewer just spinning around in your tongs
while the meat sticks to the grill (which tends to happen with
single skewers).
- To cut pork, chicken, or beef as thin as possible before marinating,
partially freeze it for an hour before cutting. Use the sharpest,
thinnest blade in your knife block, and cut thin slices across
the grain. Alternatively, ask your butcher for a pound of thinly
sliced pork for sukiyaki. Traditionally, a marbled cut of pork,
such as pork shoulder or country-style ribs, is preferred, but
pork loin or tenderloin is a suitable--and leaner--alternative,
although not as flavorful.
- I use garlic powder in marinades for grilled food because minced
garlic would burn and develop an acrid flavor over the high heat.
Use a good quality garlic powder--not garlic salt--that's more
granulated than powdery. The latter tends to become airborne when
you shake it. I like Trader Joe's garlic powder.
Pork
1/4 cup packed brown sugar (light or dark)
1/4 cup soy sauce
1 teaspoon good quality garlic powder (see Secret above)
1 pound thinly sliced pork from country-style ribs or tenderloin (see
Secret above)
Vegetable oil for grill
1/4 cup honey
Dressing
1/3 cup Asian fish sauce
1/2 cup freshly squeezed lime juice, from 4 to 8 limes, depending
on size
1/2 cup sugar
1 cup hot water
Salad
10 ounces dried rice vermicelli (also called rice sticks)
2 teaspoons kosher salt
1 small head romaine lettuce
1 small English cucumber
1 1/2 cups (4 ounces) bean sprouts, picked over and rinsed well
1/2 cup packed fresh mint leaves, rinsed and dried
2 medium carrots, shredded on medium or large holes of box grater
1/3 cup sliced green onions, green parts only, from about 4 green
onions
1/2 cup roasted, salted peanuts, chopped into 1/4-inch pieces
Marinate the Pork: In a shallow bowl or baking dish large enough to
marinate the meat, combine brown sugar, soy sauce, and garlic powder.
Stir in sliced pork, stir to coat meat, and marinate at room temperature
for 30 minutes (or up to 4 hours in the refrigerator). Soak 16 ten-inch
bamboo skewers in water while the meat marinates.
Make the Dressing: Whisk together Asian fish sauce, lime juice, sugar,
and hot water. Stir until sugar dissolves completely. Taste and adjust
seasoning if necessary. Set aside at room temperature for flavors
to blend. (Dressing can be made up to 24 hours ahead, covered, and
refrigerated.)
Prep the Salad: Bring a 4-quart pot of water to a rolling boil. When
water boils, add salt. Cook rice noodles in boiling water for 4 to
5 minutes, until tender to the tooth. They should be resilient, chewy,
and not chalky inside. Drain noodles in a colander and immediately
rinse with cold water until noodles are cool to the touch. With kitchen
shears, cut noodles into roughly 4-inch lengths. Set aside. Cut romaine
lettuce crosswise into half-inch ribbons, wash, and spin dry; set
aside. Cut cucumber into thin slices. Stack a few slices on top of
each other and cut into julienne (matchstick-size pieces); set aside.
Equally divide and layer salad ingredients among 4 large shallow pasta
bowls in the following order: romaine, cucumber, bean sprouts, mint
leaves, noodles, and carrots; set aside. (This step can be done up
to 2 hours in advance. If doing ahead, cover plates and set aside
in a cool place, but do not refrigerate, as the texture of the noodles
will suffer.)
Prepare a stovetop, gas, or charcoal grill. When grill is hot; carefully
oil the grill rack with some wadded up paper towels dipped in vegetable
oil. In the meantime, thread all the pork onto 8 pairs of skewers
(use two skewers for each brochette, according to Secret above), gathering
up pork into ruffles as you weave it onto the skewers. Pork should
be bunched up, not flat, so it stays moist while grilling. There won't
be much of the skewer showing by the time you thread on all the pork.
Place pork skewers on a cookie sheet. Place honey in a shallow bowl
and, with a pastry brush, coat both sides of pork with about 2/3 of
the honey. Grill pork just until cooked through and charred on all
sides, about 6 to 8 minutes total. Turn skewers frequently to prevent
meat from drying out while cooking, and baste with remaining honey
as meat cooks.
Lay 2 skewers of grilled pork on top of each salad in a crisscross
pattern. (Or remove pork from skewers and divide among the salads.)
Scatter green onions and peanuts on top of salads. Stir the dressing
and drizzle some over each salad. Serve remaining dressing at the
table.
Copyright Linda Carucci, 2003. All rights reserved.
Hummus, California Style
This is a variation of a recipe I entered in the Los Angeles Times Best Recipe Contest back in 1981, before I even considered going to cooking school. I had recently moved to California and couldn't find an adequate store-bought version of this refreshing, lemony spread, so I concocted my own. My original recipe contained scallions and was selected Recipe of the Week. I received a check for $25 and a letter congratulating a "Mrs. Carucci" (this would be my mother, as I've never called myself a Mrs.) for her good sportsmanship. Later, when I was an entrepreneurial cooking student, I made and sold this zesty Mediterranean spread to San Francisco's first computerized grocery delivery service, Grocery Express. They could barely keep it in stock.
Makes about 1 quart
3 cloves garlic
1/2 cup tahini (sesame seed paste)
1/2 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
1/2 cup water
2 cans (14.5 ounces each) garbanzo beans, rinsed and drained (see Note for dried beans)
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Kosher salt
Pita bread and/or crudités for serving
Peel garlic and mince in a food processor. Scrape bowl. Add tahini, lemon juice, and water and process until smooth. Add drained garbanzo beans and process until smooth. Scrape bowl. With motor running, add soy sauce, Worcestershire sauce, pepper, and about 1 teaspoon salt through the feed tube. Process until mixture is smooth. Taste and adjust texture and seasoning with more water, lemon juice, salt, and/or pepper. Before serving, allow hummus to stand for about 20 minutes for flavors to meld. Serve as a spread or dip for pita bread and cruditÈs. Cover and refrigerate any leftover hummus for up to 3 days.
Note for using dried beans: If time permits, you can use 8 ounces of dried garbanzo beans instead of the canned beans. Soak the dried beans overnight, rinse, and place in a 4-quart saucepan. Cover with cold water, bring to a boil, and reduce heat to a simmer. Skim off the scum and simmer until beans are tender, 45 to 60 minutes, depending on the age of the beans. Proceed with recipe as directed. For a refined, smoother version, peel the garbanzo beans before pureeing them.
Copyright Linda Carucci. All rights reserved.
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