A LITTLE HEAT FROM SPAIN By Linda Lau Anusasananan Sunset Magazine September 2003 Paprika is commonly used for its ruddy color rather than for it's taste. Now, however, intensely flavored varieties from Spain are arriving in markets here. Their effect on dishes goes beyond cosmetic: They impart distinct flavors, from sweet to hot to smoky. The velvety red powder, made from finely ground dried peppers, mirrors the character of the pepper used. The drying method also affects the paprika's flavor. Peppers dried in the sun maintain a pure, natural essence; those dried over a wood fire take on complex, smoky overtones. Choose a paprika from our guide at right to make classic Spanish Romesco Sauce. It's a wonderful accompaniment to a wide range of foods; we love it on pork chops. You can also use Spanish paprikas as you would generic paprika, but expect more intense flavor. Paprika Guide There are three types of Spanish paprika available--sweet, bittersweet, and hot--and each comes in sun-dried and smoked forms. Sweet paprika (PimentÛn dulce). Earthy and mild. Bittersweet paprika (PimentÛn agridulce). Rich, complex, and slightly smoky. Hot paprika (PimentÛn picante). Medium-hot, but slightly sweet. In our testing, we found that the Romescos made with sun-dried paprikas paired well with light foods: raw vegetables, grilled green onions, roasted potatoes, eggs, shrimp, halibut, salmon, chicken, and pork. The versions made with smoked paprikas, while also good with the above, tasted even batter with hearty, robust fare: beef, lamb, and grilled mushrooms. For smoked paprika, look for PimentÛn de La Vera, made from peppers grown in western Spain. Spanish paprikas are available at specialty markets and from The Spanish Table (www.tablespan.com; Berkeley, 510/548-1383; Santa Fe, 505/986-0243; Seattle, 206/682-2827) and Tienda (www.tienda.com or 888/472-1022). Romesco Sauce Linda Carucci, a cooking teacher, chef and culinary consultant (www.lckitchen.com) from Oakland, California, makes this sauce with a Spanish smoked sweet paprika and cayenne. Taste sauce before adding the cayenne to see if you want more heat. You can use regular paprika, but its flavor won't be as distinctive. You can make the sauce up to 2 days ahead; cover and chill. Alternately, freeze it up to 1 month. MAKES: About 2 1/2 cups 1 cup slivered almonds (4 oz.) 4 ounces Italian or sweet French bread 1 cup lightly packed fresh basil leaves, rinsed and drained 1 jar (7 1/4 oz.) or 1 cup peeled roasted red peppers 2 tablespoons tomato paste 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice About 2 tablespoons sherry vinegar or red wine vinegar 2 tablespoons brandy (optional) 2 tablespoons Spanish or other paprika (see notes) 1 tablespoon minced garlic About 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt About 1/3 cup clam juice 2/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil About 1/2 teaspoon cayenne (see notes) 1. Spread almonds in a 10- by 15-inch baking pan. Bake in a 350 degree regular or convection oven, shaking pan occasionally, until golden, 8 to 10 minutes. 2. Trim crusts from bread; reserve for another use or discard. Cut bread into 1-inch chunks; you should have about 3 cups. 3. In a food processor, whirl nuts until finely chopped. Add bread, basil, red peppers, tomato paste, lemon juice, 2 tablespoons vinegar, brandy (if desired), paprika, garlic, and 1/2 teaspoon salt; whirl until peppers are pureed. 4. With motor running, gradually add 1/3 cup clam juice and whirl until incorporated, then gradually add olive oil; process until smooth. Taste, and add cayenne and more salt and vinegar if desired. If thicker than desired, whirl in a little more clam juice. Scrape into a bowl. Let stand about 20 minutes for flavors to blend before serving. Per tablespoon: 61 cal., 80% (49 cal.) from fat; 1g protein; 5.4 g fat (0.7 g sat.); 3g carbo (0.4g fiber); 59 mg sodium; 0 mg chol. PHOTO TO COME: Photo by James Carrier; Food Styling by Basil Friedman. Back to In The News