Hot tips. Impeccable
sources. Home cooks are as hungry for insider information as lobbyists
on Capitol Hill.
As a professionally trained chef who teaches others how to cook,
Linda Carucci has been sharing insider information for 20 years.
Some of her students have gone on to become chefs. But at heart,
she is an advocate for everyday cooks. "Consider me your own personal
kitchen buttinsky," the Oakland, Calif., resident often says at
the start of a class.
And it is everyday cooks for whom she has produced her first book,
"Cooking School Secrets for Real World Cooks" (Chronicle Books,
$22.95, paperback), released this summer.
In it, she shares hundreds of tidbits. Among them: how to make
risotto six hours ahead (refrigerate it midway through adding the
stock); why you shouldn't put overly wet meat on the grill (it prevents
the meat from caramelizing properly); and what the correct water
temperature is for washing leeks (warm).
Cookbooks written by cooking school instructors are nothing new.
What separates Carucci's from many of the other efforts is that
it is unusually accessible and well organized. Its 103 recipes were
triple-tested by 116 home cooks across the country. Since being
a good teacher also means being a good listener, Carucci has incorporated
many of the questions that came up during recipe testing.
The book's accompanying Recipe Secrets are set along the margins
of most pages. For her Tomato-Cheddar Soup, Carucci explains the
benefits of a mere quarter-teaspoon of baking soda; when it is added,
the mixture should foam up a bit and then subside, which proves
that the soda is active. To coax the most flavor from blanched vegetables,
she advises salting them twice (the water they're cooked in and
the ice-water bath afterward).
Carucci, 49, has a natural gift for instruction. It comes across
in her book, which is already in its second printing -- a considerable
achievement for a cookbook that isn't tied to a television-chef
persona -- and during her classes. She is precise, but not fussy.
During a recent Saturday morning class at the Sur La Table store
in Arlington, her instructions to a few dozen cooks were as clear
as those in the book, and they took into consideration the conditions
that home cooks face. Sur La Table's volunteer assistants that day
could pick up tips just by watching Carucci set up. For instance,
she took the label from the package of lamb and stuck it on the
dish the meat was marinating in so she could remember its weight.
Her prep trays were stacked on the wheeled rack in order of use.
Carucci has worked as a private chef, restaurant cook-manager
and caterer. Along the way, she earned the respect of such well-known
California chefs as Thomas Keller, who called her the consummate
chef and coach. And in 2002, she was named Cooking Teacher of the
Year by the International Association of Culinary Professionals.
For the past year, she has been the Julia Child curator of food
arts at the American Center for Wine Food & the Arts in Napa, Calif.
She considers it a "dream job."
There's only one problem, familiar to home cooks: There's no time
to make dinner.
"I had no idea while I was writing this book that I'd accept the
full-time-plus food curator position, close down my home cooking
school and join the ranks of working stiffs who come home after
work every day and make supper," Carucci says.
These days, she typically resorts to taking salmon or pork chops
out of the freezer in the morning for her husband to prepare. Fortunately,
she says, he has a new cookbook to guide him.
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